Tim Holtz Stamper’s Anonymous Spring 2024 - Curiosity Shop #1 Card

Hi Everyone! Thanks so much for all the love on my last post. Today, I have another card made with the new Curiosity Stamp Set from Tim Holtz and Stamper's Anonymous, that is more on the masculine side...I was thinking Father's Day, but really it could be anything. This stamp set is not only yummy vintage but nostalgic and fun as well, and I really had a lot of fun playing with it. It is super versatile and really can be used for so many occasions. Enjoy!

Cut a piece of Kraft Cardstock to 4 x 4 5/8”. Place the paper in the platform and add the bowler hat from the Curiosity Shop Stamp Set, about ½ inch down from the left side. Stamp in Black Soot Archival from Ranger. Clean the stamp off by stamping the remaining ink onto a sticky note, and then cut the hat out. Remove the bowler hat from the platform as you are finished with it. Place the sticky note over the bowler hat and then position the top hat upside down and above and to the right of the bowler hat so that it is still touching in the corner and close the platform to secure. Stamp it in the Black Soot. Clean the stamp off by stamping the remaining ink onto another sticky note, then cut it out. You are finished with that stamp.

Gather Pine Needles, Rustic Wilderness, Black Soot, Scorched Timber, and Walnut Stain Distress Oxides, as well as Picket Fence Distress Ink (which actually is a pigment ink as well so it’s perfect to use with Oxides) and the Labels Layering Stencil. Secure the Kraft card with the hats on the table with scotch tape up at the top, then add the sticky note masks on the hats.  Position the stencil over so the images are evenly spaced and lined up, and then add tape to secure it. Using the smallest Detail Ink Blending Tools, you will randomly ink in the individual label parts with the different colors of it. (Note: I was trying to go for the Starbucks green color, so I started with Rustic Wilderness then added Pine Needles on top and then a bit of Black Soot on top of that and then blended in to get that nice dark green.) The lines between the labels are very thin, so if you get another ink color on top of another, just blend it out with the other color. When finished, remove the stencil and clean it with water, remove the masks, and give this a good dry with the heat tool. 

(I made two of these so you can see the front and back on the same photo.) Use a paper trimmer to cut across the top of the hat paper and stop when you get to the top hat on both sides, and then use scissors to cut around the hat, as seen in the top left.  Flick a bit of water onto this to create a mottled look on the labels as well as to make sure all the ink is set, and dry with a heat tool. Ink around the edges with Gathered Twigs Distress Ink or another brown color. Flip the hat paper over to apply the two sided tape in all the correct places to allow the gift card and coffee lid plug sticks to fit correctly, as seen in the bottom left of the pic with the sticks and gift card used for measuring. You don’t have to use two sizes of tape, but I found that the ¼” and 1” worked perfectly. The main thing is to leave the top hat area deep for the sticks to go into so it will be sort of like a magic hat that holds long items, and to make an area for the gift card to fit into, while sealing up the rest of the border. I forgot to add the small paper punch (1/2”) to make a half circle cut in the middle of the border area for the gift card to allow it to be easily pulled out. Set this aside now.

For the background of the card, cut a piece of SSP to 4 5/8 x 6 5/8”. Directly onto the Glass Mat, apply Gathered Twigs Distress Ink straight from the pad randomly a few times (you will not be able to see it well), as well as Pine Needles Distress Oxide, and Walnut Stain Oxide, randomly in about a 6x6” area, and mist pretty well with water. Take the SSP and run it through the wet inks, and dry a short bit with the heat tool, and then continue to tap the paper into the wet, dry it, tap again, dry until you like the look of it, and then dry completely. Ink the edges well with the Gathered Twigs and bring it onto the surface around the borders a bit. Then lightly mist with water to get the tiniest water spots to really finish off a beautiful marble look. I did two in the photo to show you how different each will be and still be gorgeous. Dry with a heat tool. 

Place the paper into a stamp platform, and taking the number strip image (I only used 1, 2, and 3 so I cut those from the strip to make stamping a bit easier.) stamp the 1 in Pine Needles Distress Ink (I forgot to add it in the photo), and the 2 and 3 in Black Soot Archival. You can do both color at the same time being careful to only apply the inks to the correct numbers. Continue the pattern so that the 1 is skipping around some, and until you have two rows of numbers. Dry this well as ink stays wet longer on SSP. Take a piece of green colored Design Tape and affix it below the numbers and around the back to secure it well. The rest of the paper will not be seen as the hat paper will cover it up. Set these aside for now.

Taking more SSP, about 3.5 x 8.5”, place into the stamp platform, and arrange the typewriter and both pointing hands on, leaving room for two more hands at the bottom. Close the lid to secure. Stamp the images with Black Soot Archival Ink, and then dry with the heat tool. Turn the paper upside down to stamp the other two hands, and then dry again. (I cut mine off not thinking about it being better to leave them in place in case I had to restamp later.) Leave the images in place on the platform in case you have to restamp after coloring them in….always a good thing to do. (HUGE NOTE: I used a Craft Knife to cut around the typewriter parts to insert the paper behind the those parts, BUT if I would have just not inked that top part where it looks like the paper is stopped and left that open, I could have just cut a paper shape coming off that, and wouldn’t have had to use the craft knife and made life much easier.)

(Like my Oxides, I hadn’t used the Crayons in awhile so I decided to use those for coloring this, and there are two shown here, but I only ended up using the left side one.) Using Distress Crayons and a Detail Water Brush, color in the hands with Tattered Rose and Tea Dye by applying some Crayon to the white mat and picking up with the brush. Use Hickory Smoke to color in the suit and most of the typewriter, as well as Black Soot. For the hats I colored in the bands with Pine Needles Distress Ink since it was laying right by me instead of the Crayon. I used Tea Dye on the bowler and Hickory Smoke on the top hat. Back to the typewriter, go over all the metal parts with a little Iron Gate Crayon to add a nice pearly sheen. Tea Dye was great for the inside of the keys for a little aged look. Once dry, use a silver metallic pen for thin metal parts to make them stand out. I also used a gold metallic pen and made some scribbles to make it look like there might be wording on the typewriter. Once finished, I added two sided tape to the back, and thought about restamping as mentioned above, but I thought everything looked ok.

I cut out all the parts, and used a craft knife to cut around the top typewriter parts which was tedious, so please see what I mentioned above about saving myself the time.  I used a black permanent marker to edge all the pieces since they were small and some parts too tight to get a blended tool in there. I cut a small piece of SSP to be the paper for the typewriter that would fit about 2x2”, and stamped the sentiment first from the Curiosity set, and found the word ‘you’re’ on another old stamp on the Stuff to Say set, instead typing it myself on my typewriter which would have been much smaller, and I stamped those in Black Soot Archival. I found the ‘No. 1’ on the Eccentric Remnant Rubs set and added it below. I also added the two extra dots after the sentiment with the black permanent pen. I edged around the paper with the same pen, and then attached the paper to the back of the typewriter with two sided tape, and then I added it to the right side of the card. I used Glossy Accents on all the typewriter’s keys as well. For the fingers, I added a tiny bit of Collage Medium to the coffee lid plug sticks, and then removed the backing of one, and stuck it on above the notch, and then added the finger behind it matching it up and pressed them tightly to seal them together. I did the other the same way, and then added them inside the top hat, pushing them as far as could go and arranging them to look as though they are laying in the hat, then I added the gift card. 

Supplies:

(Paper Trimmer, Stamp Platform, Scissors, Sticky Note, Glass Mat, Tape, Detail Ink Blending Tool, Heat Tool, Water Mister, Two Sided Tape (1”, ¼”), Ink Blending Tool, ½” Small Circle Punch, Detail Water Brush, Craft Knife, Rub On Tool)

-Ranger Surfaces: Kraft Cardstock, Specialty Stamping Paper

-Stamper’s Anonymous Tim Holtz Stamp Set: Curiosity Shop

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Archival Ink: Black Soot

-Stamper’s Anonymous Tim Holtz Layering Stencil: Labels

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Oxide Ink: Pine Needles, Rustic Wilderness, Black Soot, Scorched Timber, Walnut Stain

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Ink: Picket Fence, Gathered Twigs, Pine Needles

-Tim Holtz Idea-ology: Travel Design Tape, Black Kraftstock, Eccentric Remnant Rubs

-Ranger Pigment Ink: Glacier White

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Crayons: Tattered Rose, Tea Dye, Hickory Smoke, Black Soot, Iron Gate

-Stamper’s Anonymous Tim Holtz Stamp Set: Stuff to Say

-Ranger Glossy Accents

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Collage Medium: Matte                                          

-Silver and Gold Metallic Extra Fine Pen, Black Permanent Marker, Gift Card, Green Coffee Lid Plug Sticks

Thank you so much for stopping by here today, and for all the wonderful comments on social! Until next time, I hope your hands get creatively dirty soon!

Tim Holtz Sizzix Vault Series 2024 - Picture Show Pocket Watch with Gears Working Clock

Hello Everyone! I think this is a record for me...I've had sooo many messages asking for this tutorial to make the Picture Show Pocket Watch with Gears Clock, using two of the new Sizzix Dies from Tim Holtz, the Picture Show and Pocket Gears Thinlits. So I'll just jump right in...grab a snack because this is LONG, and I included many photos from different angles as this was difficult to photograph especially all the detail. OH AND....if you are going to make this, buy the miniature clock mechanism (got mine on Amazon and read first step below for the details) and 2.5 inch Dome from Sizzix ahead of time to be ready. Don't forget that I have a print button below so you can print the whole thing easily. AND PLEASE LEAVE ME A COMMENT if you are making this so I know that this tutorial was worth the time and the energy, as sometimes I wonder, so help a girl out! Enjoy!!!

This is the Clock Movements Mechanism with Short Hands and ½” Tall Shaft Clock Kit I purchased on Amazon. I could not find another kit anywhere that was small enough and had the ½ inch tall shaft (the center long part that goes through the hole in the middle), that also has the short hands. If you get any longer than ½”, the clock parts will be too big to fit under the shaker dome. The kit comes with several hands to choose from and two battery mechanisms so you can make 2 clocks with several choices of hands for $10. 

Using only the thicker Metallic Classics Kraftstock (to make the clock as durable as possible), add two sided tape to the back of a black metallic piece first and die cut the picture wheel from it from the Vault Picture Show Thinlits set. You can punch out the windows and save those for another project. You will not need this die set anymore, fyi. Add two sided tape to a gold piece and die cut the pocket watch from the Vault Watch Gears Thinlits. Die cut a silver pocket watch with no tape on the back this time, as this piece will be the very back of the clock. Take the black picture wheel and cut through all the arm pieces that are flush with the very top of the square opening as the wheel is a little larger than the pocket watch. It should look like a wagon wheel with spokes but with no outer circle wheel part. Punch a 5/16” hole in the very center of the wheel, the gold watch, and the silver watch, making sure they will all line up once adhered together. (NOTE: If you don’t have a 5/16” hole punch that is deep enough (at least 2 inches to punch a hole in the center) you can use the ‘zero’ thinlit from the Sizzix Postale Set as it’s the perfect size to fit the width of the shaft. Just die cut the zero in the center of each piece and pop it out, as I did because I didn’t have a hole punch. AND, there are enough zeros to die cut all three pieces at the same time. AND as a cool addition, if you die cut these with a pretty used up cutting pad that has lots of scratches and cuts in it, those images will transfer easily onto the Metallic Kraftstock and add a fabulous distressed detail into the paper, a bonus if you like the distressed look. If you don’t then make sure to use clean smooth cutting pads on the Metallic Kraftstock.) Remove the backing on the wheel and adhere it to the Gold Pocket Watch making sure a square at the very top is centered correctly where the number 12 will go just like a clock face. Remove the backing on the gold and adhere the silver watch piece over making sure the silver is face up (again, this part is the back of the clock). Using more Black Metallic Kraftstock, die cut the small set of numbers from the Watch Gears Thinlits. There are already the correct amounts you need for a clock on the die which is SOOOOO nice and convenient. 

Before adhering the numbers, and to make that part a little easier, die cut another silver pocket watch with two sided tape on the back (You might as well die cut 2 more in silver and one in copper while you are at it.). The die cut piece has two embossed circles in the center to help you figure out other die cuts. Use scissors to cut out the largest circle part so that there is just a 1/16^” rim left on the pocket watch. I used a hole punch a few times in the circle to help me get started cutting the circle. You can also use the circle die that comes in the set but you will still need to cut the extra little bit of ring away with scissors. Once cut, remove the backing and adhere this over the wheel pocket watch part so that now it looks like a silver pocket watch frame with square openings for the numbers. Now you can adhere the numbers better knowing the room you have a lot easier, especially for the double digit ones. I tried to position mine so that they would be seen in the same linear fashion all around the clock face. Once the numbers were down I checked on the depth of the clock shaft and hands to see how thick the borders of the clock needed to be so that there would be enough room for the hands to turn correctly, and decided to keep building up the borders a little for that reason. So I added four more silver pocket watch frames on top (silver pocket watches with the centers cut out) to add more thickness. I also wanted a thin border of copper to show for more cohesiveness with the colors of the upcoming gears, so on the copper pocket watch, I die cut the center out with the circle die that came with the set so it left a wider border of cooper than the other silver ones that I hand cut. On top of the copper, I added a silver cut out pocket watch for the very top piece. I die cut all the gears I thought I needed from each of silver, gold, and copper Metallic Kraftstock with two sided tape on the back, as well as two each of the of the handle loop pieces from the die set (one for the front and one for the back) in silver with two sided tape on the back. I also place all the gears and handle parts that had been die cut back into the machine with the scratched up die cutting plate so that the distressed design would be shown on all the pieces. To further bring out the distressed designs I dabbed on Black Soot Distress Paint from Ranger over all the pieces, waited a few minutes and then wiped off the paint leaving it in the recessed distressed designs for a more vintage look. If you want a smooth shiny look then skip the distressed plate for a smooth plate and don’t use the paint. I tested out the paint look first on the whole silver pocket watch on the bottom right of this picture to make sure I would like the look, so you can look at it to understand what I mean by distressed design with the black paint look, as well as the old cutting plate I used up top in the photo. Metallic papers will pick up all the designs on the cutting pads as you probably already know. Once the paint was dry, I inked the edges of all the gears, the handle parts, and rims of the clock with Vintage Photo Archival Ink. Then I added the handle parts on both the front and back of the clock, and played around with the gear placements until I liked it and adhered those down. I of course had left over gears and that pocket watch I didn’t use that I tested the paint on, and I will use those in another project. 

Here is the clock face up close with the gears stuck on as well as the handle parts, all ready to go before the clock mechanism goes in. I also used some of the inside circle parts (the throw away parts) from some of the gears to add centers and nail heads on the clock face. On two of the larger ones I made lines down the middle for a nail head look with the blade of my scissor.

The clock mechanism comes with not only all the parts you need and more, but with also a metal L bracket to attach the clock to a wall, but I am using this bracket as a base piece so that it can brace the clock securely on the bottom to use on a table top. Since it has a bend in it for the wall fastening I thought to bend it back to make it longer to help secure my base. I used pliers to gently bend it flush with the other part. See the original and then see what mine looks like. After I bent it in place, I attached the circle part opening around the indention for it on the shaft, and snapped it in place, then I added a little Collage Medium to the rubber circle washer and pushed it over the brace, and let that dry.

Here is a different angle so you can see the bend I made with the pliers.

I added a bit of Collage Medium on top of the rubber washer and then added the clock face on centered correctly with the 12 lined up in the middle and let it dry. Then I added the shortest clock hands in the kit in order that they go per the photo on the instructions. I used the shortest because I didn’t want to risk any hands touching the dome in the next parts. HOWEVER, depending on the length of not only the hands you need to factor in the length of the shaft in the middle, so keep that in mind when building up the borders of the clock. Also, from a distance it was very hard to see the black colored clock hands, so I ended up painting them silver with a leafing pen and toned down the gold middle part with a gold leafing pen as it was the wrong color gold and a bit too bright.

To construct dome cover, I die cut two of the pocket watches in silver with two sided tape, and then die cut the smaller circle inside the watch, to not only have a wider border but the two inside circles will be used as well. The 2.5” Shaker Dome is a tad small to fit over the whole clock face, so having the wider border on these two will make it fit great. I also snipped off the top handle parts and run all the other parts through the machine with the scratched up die cutting plate to distress those. I added the Black Soot Paint on, waited a few minutes and then wiped off the rest.

I removed the backing on the Dome and adhered it to the top of one of the watch borders. Then I added the other watch border on top of this lining up the borders best as I could. Using the small Hinge I lined it up where it would go on the bottom middle of the dome and I used a pen to make the marks where the Mini Fasteners would go. I have a jewelry mini hole punch and I used it to punch the holes for the fasteners, and then inserted them into the Hinge holes and secured them tightly with pliers following the edge of the border of the pocket watch.

Taking one of the circles, I marked where the holes would go with the other end of the Hinge on the very edge of the circle, leaving as much of a gap as possible between the Dome and circle so that there would be plenty of working room for bottom circle part later. I used the pliers again to make sure the fasteners were on tight and flat. 

Looking through my Idea-ology stash for a Swivel Clasp, I came across an old Toggle Clasp from the first release of Tim’s Assemblage line. It was perfect for that authentic look from an old pocket watch with a connecting chain, so I used an old Assemblage chain as well, and replaced the chain from the Swivel Clasp with it, using pliers to open the links and exchanging them, and using enough to go from the top of the handle on the clock to the were the ‘o’ clasp will go. On the ‘o’ part of the clasp, I took the other circle and punched a hole at the very edge and inserted a Mini Fastener in the hole on the clasp and secured it tightly with the pliers. I also wanted to make sure that the bracket on the clock would be secured with something as well, so I used a larger fastener and marked where the holes would go to secure it, but I didn’t punch them yet to make sure I would have the correct placement once the Dome was on. Then I removed the back on the Dome and added Collage Medium for reinforcement and then added the Dome on lining up everything like a clock, and let that dry.

I added the Swivel Chain on the handle of the clock and then laid the circle with the ‘o’ clasp on top of the other circle (not securing yet, so the backing is still on) to make sure things would line up and work the way I wanted, and then I punched the holes for the large fasteners to secure the bracket. I removed the backing on the circle and then pushed the fastener through and bent the arms in place, holding up the clock so that the bottom circle was just hanging there. Once the bracket was secured I adhered that circle to the bottom circle, pressing all around to make sure all parts were stuck together. Then I pushed the toggle through the ‘o’ clasp. 

Here is a close up of the fastener holding the bracket down, and the toggle through the ‘o’ clasp.

Then I adhered the Hardware Head to the front of the handle with Collage Medium. 

Supplies:

(Paper Trimmer, Two Sided Tape, Die Cut Machine, Die Pick, Scissors, 5/16” Hole Punch, Ink Blending Tool, Pliers, Mini Hole Punch)

-Tim Holtz Idea-ology: Metallic Classics Kraftstock, Hinges, Mini Fasteners, Swivel Clasp, Hardware Heads

-Sizzix Tim Holtz Thinlits (Vault Series 2024): Vault Picture Show, Vault Watch Gears

-Sizzix Tim Holtz Thinlits: Postale

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Paint: Black Soot

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Archival Ink: Vintage Photo

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Collage Medium: Matte

-Sizzix Shaker Domes: Circle 2.5”

-Tim Holtz Assemblage: Gunmetal Chain, Toggle Clasp

-Miniature Clock Movements Mechanism with Short Hands and ½” Tall Shaft Clock Kit

Thank you truly for all the love and support with this project...it means so much. I will be back again next week. Until then, I hope your hands get creatively dirty soon!

Tim Holtz Stamper’s Anonymous Everyday 2024 - Abstract Florals Mixed Media Cards

Hello Everyone! First, I want to thank those of you for all the comments from last week on the Sizzix makes. I truly appreciate it! Today, I have the first make for the new Tim Holtz Stamper's Anonymous Everyday Release, made with the new Abstract Florals Stamp Set, an absolute favorite set for me! I could stamp and color these flowers all day, and the Color Wheel in the background makes the coloring even more fun. Plus I love the sentiments that can be used for pretty much any card. Enjoy!

To make two 4 x 9” cards, cut Black Kraftstock to 4 x 9” twice. Place both in the large stamping platform and secure with magnets. Arrange the flowers (three per card) from the Abstract Florals Stamp Set onto both papers in the center with plenty of room on the sides open, and close the lid to secure them. Stamp the flowers in Glacier White Pigment Ink from Ranger lightly as you don’t need much to see the outlines. (Note: I used the leaf stamp on both cards, so I stamped one and then the other, and even though I probably won’t get a perfect lined up image on the second stamping, I’m ok with that as it’s just the leaf. Also, reink the Glacier White Pigment Ink pad an hour or more before starting so it’s not too juicy.) Use a heat tool to dry the papers as Glacier White stays wet a little longer than most. Leave the images in the platform for the restamping later on, but go ahead and clean off the white ink taking care not to move them when you do.

Lay one card on the Glass Mat lining it up on the grid lines nice and straight. If you have Sticky Grid Tape, use it underneath or use a rolled up piece of tape to hold it secure. Add the Mini Wheel Layering Stencil up top and center it above the flowers. Use tape to secure the stencil. Add the Labels Layering Stencil below, centering it, and then tape it down. Use a clean Tiny Ink Blending Tool and Foam to ink over the stencils with the Glacier White Ink very lightly, and be pretty careful around the images so you can still see the outlines. The Tiny Ink Blending Tool makes this much easier to do. However, It’s okay to get the ink on the images as you will paint over those, so don’t fret if you do. Also, the darker the white ink, the more brighter the other ink on top, but for this card I wanted the flowers to stand out more, so I only used a lighter inking. Remove this one and do the other the same, then dry both papers with the heat tool. Clean the stencils with water and dry them. 

Since there are two cards, I split the colors of the color wheel in half, six colors of Archival Ink for each card. You can use Distress Ink over the white, but for staying power Archival is best. Gather your colors of Ink for the color wheel part as well as green inks for the bottom. On the one on the left I used Spiced Marmalade, Crackling Campfire, Barn Door, Picked Raspberry, Dusty Concord, and Villainous Potion to ink over the wheel. I pounced on each color in its respective pie piece in the wheel, rather than rubbing to deliver as much color as I could. Also, once I’ve done one inking of each, I go over each again to darken the color. You can do that at any time though and you don’t always have to use the stencil, BECAUSE the Archival Inks will not show up on the Black paper without the white underneath! How cool is that?!! But the stencil still gives me security even though I know that. So don’t fret about the stencil moving and ruining anything, because you can’t. After you do the wheel, ink over the Labels using green inks. I used Rustic Wilderness, Crushed Olive, Evergreen Bough, and Peeled Paint, randomly inking in different tiles every time. For the right paper I used Wild Honey, Fossilized Amber, Crushed Olive, Rustic Wilderness, Evergreen, Bough, and Faded Jeans for the wheel, and the same greens for the Labels. Once finished, dry them both with the heat tool as the ink stays wet a little longer on top of the Glacier White.

Gather the Distress Paints you will use. I used the same colors as the inks… Spiced Marmalade, Crackling Campfire, Barn Door, and Fossilized Amber on one, and Picked Raspberry, Dusty Concord, Villainous Potion, and Fossilized Amber again on the other, with Rustic Wilderness, Peeled Paint, and Twisted Citron (not the same color I’ve used but it’s my go to for leaves) for the stems and leaves. Ranger just came out with new Angled Paint Brushes, and I have to say that I absolutely love them, and they are my new go to for paint. I have no special way to paint in the images, so paint away and do your best to stay in the lines as the images will be restamped again. If you cover up up anything that you are not sure about, just use the images on the actual stamps to figure it (like I did) if you want to add any details like those tiny lines on the flowers. Let these dry awhile before moving on. If you get any paint where you don’t want it, use a black permanent marker to cover it up…I had to. 

Use the Mini Spots Layering Stencil to ink in more Glacier White around the flowers in the center area. Dry with a heat tool. I did this part before the restamping and embossing so I wouldn’t reheat the embossing. Use the stencil again to ink over the white with Speckled Egg and Faded Jeans Archival Inks. Dry.

Place the papers back into the platform exactly as you had them first, and gather your ink and embossing powder to be ready. (Note: I originally was going to do white powder, but I did a trial and it just covered up too much of the painting, and even though I used an anti-static pouch, it really stuck to stuff too much, so I went with clear powder instead.) I decided to go with Fossilized Amber Archival Ink to stamp in to bring out the yellow areas on the paper, and it won’t show on the darker areas to cover any detail, but you can use whatever color you want. Very important to do this…Pounce over the papers with an Anti-Static Pouch really well so powder won’t go where you don’t want. It will dull the black background some, but you can clean it up later. Stamp the images, and then quickly add longer lines on the stems with an Embossing Pen, and then immediately pour Clear Embossing over each, tap it off and use a small brush to remove any powder where ever it shouldn’t be, and then heat emboss. Don’t forget to add the other leaf if you used it again like I did. Use a slightly damp paper towel to clean off any powder from the Anti-Static Pouch to bring the paper back to dark black. Since you used Archival Ink the other images will be fine and no ink should come off.

Stamp the sentiment from the stamp set in Glacier White and heat emboss in Clear Powder. (Some of the ink underneath bled through to my embossing….a first for me, and I don’t know why.) Cut, score, and fold base cards to 4 x 9” from Kraft Cardstock, and ink the edges in Gathered Twigs Distress Ink.  Mount White Heavystock or cardstock to this, about 3 7/8 x 8 7/8”. Use a Deckle Trimmer to trim down the flower paper to about 3.75 x 8.75”, ink the edges in Gathered Twigs, and mount to the front of the card. Use a white pen to outline the flower and leaves. 

Supplies:

(Paper Trimmer, Two Sided Tape, Large Stamp Platform, Heat Tool, Tape, Tiny Ink Blending Tool, Small Paint Brush (Angeled), Anti-Static Pouch)

-Tim Holtz Idea-ology: Black Kraftstock

-Stamper’s Anonymous Tim Holtz Stamp Set: Abstract Florals

-Ranger Pigment Ink: Glacier White

-Stamper’s Anonymous Tim Holtz Layering Stencil: Labels, Mini Wheel (Set 59), Mini Spots (Set 59)

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Archival Ink: Wild Honey, Fossilized Amber, Crushed Olive, Rustic Wilderness, Evergreen, Bough, Faded Jeans, Spiced Marmalade, Crackling Campfire, Barn Door, Picked Raspberry, Dusty Concord, Villainous Potion, Peeled Paint, Speckled Egg

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Paint: Spiced Marmalade, Crackling Campfire, Barn Door, Fossilized Amber, Picked Raspberry, Dusty Concord, Villainous Potion, Rustic Wilderness, Peeled Paint, Twisted Citron

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Embossing Pen

-Ranger Embossing Powder: Clear                                                                   

-Ranger Surfaces: Kraft Cardstock

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Heavystock: White

-Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Ink: Gathered Twigs

-White Pen

Thank you so very much for stopping by, and again thank you for all the comments and support. I appreciate you all very much. I'll be back again soonish. Until then, I hope your hands get creatively dirty soon!